Donald and I walked down toward the Arno, then out to Santa Croce, toward our old neighborhood. Certain areas are very usy with tourists -- the Ponte Vecchio was jammed with people - but the side streets are quiet. We did a lot of window shopping. We especially enjoy the houseware stores, where olive oil containers and expresso makers are commonly displayed in the windows. Rather than large stores like we are accustomed to, stores are generally long and narrow, with one specific type of product. There are plumbing shops, shops with only brass door hardware (including a huge variety of doorbell plates), stationery (remember stationery stores?), jewelry of course, frames, etc.
When the shops close, they pull down metal door covers, so you cannot recognize them. In the morning, we looked in the window of a shop with pocket knives (yes, a pocket knife shop). In the afternoon - poof! - it had disappeared. We guessed that they must have closed up for a few hours.
Today's miracle was that I found the scarf shop. Our first visit, which was six years ago? (Can't remember exactly when), I passed this marvelous little scarf shop, and bought myself a silk scarf with fruit on it. I love it and wear it quite a bit. It's a dark scarf, though, so more a fall or winter item. So when we returned four years ago (?) I looked for the scarf shop again and couldn't find it, though Iooked for a week. Then, yesterday, there it was, right where I thought it was. I told my story to the shopkeeper, and she said maybe she had closed the shop for the week. She says they close on Sundays. So I say maybe I come back on Saturday to pick up a scarf. Oh, she says, she will be closed. Saturday? I ask. Well, she says, there is a family wedding, so they will close the shop. Of course, I think. So I bought myself a scarf, and she gave me her card so that I can find her next time I come to Florence.
On another topic, Donald and Iare comparing various house red wines. So far, the very best was at our first dinner at Restorante Marione. A can of coke was 3 Euro, and a half liter of house red was 5 Euro, so we opted for the wine, and oh my goodness, it was delicious. We have tried this ploy three times now, and the house wind is usually palatable, but that first half carafe was fabulous. Perhaps the jet lag helped, but Ithink it was a minor influence.
We know that there is a gelato place around the corner from our hotel, which helps us avoid stopping for gelato at the shops that pop up every two blocks or so.
Thunder began in the afternoon and though the sky was lue aove us, we could see dark clouds across the river. Soon rain began to fall in big drops. It was about 78 degrees F, and raining.
In the late afternoon yesterday, Donald took a nap while I went out to explore. I headed toward the Duomo and wandered the surrounding neighorhoods. The "most famous artists shop in the word" is still there, on Via della Studio. I looked at the window display, disappointed that Nora had not sent me with an order.
I listened in on some tour guides' explanations of the local neighorhoods, but then, I heard the sound of an organ, and followed it to a small church, the Chiesa di S. Maria de'Ricci. A poster out front announced a daily concert of the organ, as a benefit for the church. Leave a donation if you like to help with restoration. It is a small church, with maybe ten rows of pews, and maybe four or five other people were there. I sat and listened to a familiar Bach piece, then left to find Dante's church, which is around the corner. Again, there are maybe ten rows of pews, and only natural lighting from one rose window. There are four or five of us sitting in the quiet. This is where Dante met the love of his life, Beatrice. It is not easy to find, being on a side street off of a side street, and there are no signs. By the front left pew, there is a large basket, filled with letters from girls wishing for love. (Marcie has written a nice piece about this. If she sends me the link I'll include it here...)
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